SPOTLIGHT: Emma Willis MBE
Emma Willis has come a long way from selling shirts to creating some of the finest pieces for celebrities, A-listers, and even King Charles.
Meet "The First Lady of Jermyn Street", a Modern Icon of British Craftsmanship
Enter the world of Emma Willis, where every stitch tells a story, and every shirt has a purpose.
They say that what we wear doesn't define us, but an Emma Willis shirt can make you stand a little straighter, feel a little sharper, and carry yourself with quiet confidence. As we mark Women in Trade Day, we wanted to spotlight the woman who has spent the past three decades redefining one of the most traditional corners of British menswear - the historic Jermyn Street. We caught up with Emma to ask a few questions and to get a glimpse into her impeccably tailored world.
By Janet Kirlew
Tailoring Her Own Story, One Stitch at a Time
Since 1999, the store with shirts of Emma Willis has been the crown jewel of Jermyn Street. But the road to becoming one of the few traditional female shirtmakers in the UK began in a rather unexpected way.
"I left University and art school prematurely and needed to pay my rent, so worked for a company selling clothes door to door and the shirts were the only thing I liked, so I sold them in the city to men I knew working there then in my early 20's and that was it, I found a way to make money."
Emma Willis has come a long way from selling shirts to creating some of the finest pieces for celebrities, A-listers, and even King Charles. Today, her shirts are defined by luxurious fabrics like Swiss and West Indian Sea Island cottons, traditional English tailoring techniques, and a dedication to producing everything in the UK in an era of outsourcing.
"Made in England or probably Made in UK label still 100% has its extraordinary value and is the best marketing tool you earn if you do."
"Good Shirts Are Recession-Proof"
How difficult is it to make it as a woman in the world of male fashion? And to do so by focusing mostly on one single garment? The shirt - such a basic piece, yet undeniably a staple. Emma Willis has long held a theory that good shirts are recession-proof. Looking back, she's happy to report that theory has not only held up but proven pandemic-proof as well.
"…It caused people to buy more casual shirts, in linen and brushed cottons, with collars open and sleeves rolled up, they adapted." And so did she. "It also pushed me to start making polo and t-shirts, and luxury cotton mills started making these more casual stretch jersey cottons."
In a fast-paced world of online shopping and fast fashion, she champions the slow, the tactile, the handmade.
"…People still love to buy physically, in a shop, trying things on, feeling fabrics, and talking to real people who know and are passionate about the product.
This example serves as a powerful lesson for young UK manufacturers, showing that the human connection and timeless quality remain a recipe for enduring success.
Stepping up the Game for All the Women in the Trade
With a successful career, a sterling reputation, and well-earned recognition, Emma Willis has already paved the way for women in this trade. However, her recent collaboration with Caroline Andrew is more than just a smart business move. It's a statement.
"...We decided to find a shared space in addition to our shops, so mutual customers could be fitted for suits and shirts at the same time."
In an industry long dominated by men, these two women are reshaping the rules. No rivalry, no competition, just mutual respect, shared vision, and a refreshing example of women supporting women at the highest level of craftsmanship. This partnership is seamless, quite literally.
A Final Thread
With a distinguished career behind her and a clear eye on what lies ahead, Emma continues to lead by example. She isn’t just tailoring shirts - she’s tailoring a legacy, and in honor of celebrating this year’s Women in Trade Day she says: “I will be raising my glass to Laura Ashley, who built her empire by making everything in her own UK factory, employing and training locally, as well as serving in the Royal Naval Service and at Bletchley Park in her early twenties in WW11. I and all my friends absolutely loved her dresses when we were very young and she is an icon for us women manufacturers.”
